Bansko skiing revealed

by Apr 4, 2020Eastern Europe / Balkans, Winter holidays

Bansko ski resort combines slopes among untouched nature of a national park with genuine Bulgarian character and hospitality, while skiing comes to its essence…

Excitement is so strong, every year in December, when big packing starts for my family ski vacation in Bansko. This amazing, lovely resort is located around two hours drive, south from Bulgarian capital Sofia. Entire school holiday, including Christmas and New Year’s Eve, we’ll be rushing down the ski slopes being familiar with every piece of the mountain. Buying a studio in Bansko in 2018. enabled my family to truly enjoy this skiing jewel for almost a month, each year.

Bansko town panorama

Bansko town panorama

Glance into the past

Bansko Gondola and ski road

Everything in Bansko looked so different during 1980s. It was a quiet, stockbreeding village, living its own traditional life.  Around the main church,  typical stone houses were built, overlooked by mighty Pirin Mountain. Nobody, except maybe a few enthusiastic locals, thought that one day, Bansko will rise to the privilege of hosting Alpine Skiing World Cup events.

Enjoying Todorka ski area, Bansko

Enjoying Todorka ski area, Bansko

Bansko town gondola queue

Bansko town gondola queue

Banderiska Poliana ski area, Bansko

Banderiska Poliana ski area, Bansko

relaxing ski slopes of bansko

From 2003., modern gondola replaced mini buses to take skiers from the town, up to Banderishka Poliana. This is where real network of ski lifts starts, and where all skiing facilities for beginners are located. I would like to remind you to wake up early enough en be at the Bansko town gondola station around 8AM. This will save you hours of time, since by 9.30AM, line up can be endlessly long. These 25 minutes gondola ride is always perfect time for me and my son, to chat on how our skiing day will look. We usually add many jokes, because when a day starts with a smile, even top speed , downhill runs look pretty easy. No matter how passionate and confident you are, and how great your skiing technique is, it’s advisable to start your day with a gentle, blue run No.1. Kolarski ski lift will take you up in just four minutes. Then you can choose between two short, well maintained red runs No.7 and 8, or mentioned blue one.  Plenty of easy turns and long, pleasant slope through the forest, fits greatly, as a warm up early in the morning.

Skiing here after 10AM, can require some maneuvering, due to large number of beginners and ski schools on the slope. While enjoying blue run, you can choose to turn right, half way down. That enables you to jump on Siligarnik or Todorka Express lifts, and arrive to Plato and Todorka ski area. This is actually the highest altitude zone, ranging from 2200 to 2523m (8277ft). Being there from 9.00 to 11.30AM a.m. is a pure paradise. If you would like to get more speed, then try, great blue runs No.5 and 10. They are long and wide slopes, with just a few slightly steeper parts, connecting upper, Plato ski area, with lower, Banderiska Poliana gondola station. Both slopes branch off, providing a few non crowded slopes with fabulous nature. Now, let’s go back to highest highest skiing zone of Bansko, located around Todorka summit.

Bansko ski runs map

Bansko ski runs map

From there, all the magic of Pirin Mountain National Park can be embraced. Sharp summits and mountain slopes are overlooking steep valleys of mountain rivers, while down, in the distance, Bansko and Razlog towns could be seen. What an Alpine set of landscapes in the middle of Bulgaria! After a few panoramic photos, please explore two blue parallel runs No.3 and 11, which could be easily categorized as easy reds. I realized how Bulgarians always push for an extra adventure, by marking demanding runs as easy category ones . Here you can let the speed to guide you. while some parts become very bumpy during afternoon hours. You’ll be able to see many beginners, proudly determined to ski these “easy” blues. At the end, most of them struggle, when the incline of the slope takes over. At the bottom of any of these two blue runs, cozy little mountain hut is located. Fireplace, wooden furniture, amazing views through the windows, clean washrooms and cheerful staff, is more than enough for relaxing snack, or a lunch break. Doughnut and a tea for 7$, or lunch with one drink for 20$, are rates to expect all around Bansko ski area. It is absolutely fair enough, for the best ski resort in Eastern Europe. Mentioned prices cannot be compared with high standard of renowned ski resorts like Val d’Isere, Zermatt, Cervinia or Cortina d’Ampezzo.

high level skiing in BANSKO

Now, let’s switch to some real staff. From the top lift station, you can experience perfectly set red runs No.2 and No.4. Apply all your skiing technique, with enjoyment and enough speed. Finally, every skier is proud to enter the toughest part of FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup track. No.6 red and famous No.9 Tomba black run, named after Italian superstar skier Alberto Tomba, require caution and expertise in every moment. In this section, my son’s excitement is usually at its peak. We both know how demanding and tricky these slopes can be. That means I am half excited, half slightly worried.

My son has just conquered Tomba black run

Jonnie on the slope, Bansko

Red No.6 has serious incline for its category. Be ready for regular traps of icy parts, which you can try to avoid, and pick the best snow sections to make your turn. If you are not a pro, try to control your speed aligning it with your confidence and skiing level. Then comes Tomba, legendary black run which we all watch on TV, while top athletes are skiing down to reach the podium of the World Cup. Challenge and caution in every move, mix of dangerous, pure icy parts, and serious gradient of a slope , are just a part of your experience on Tomba run. Initial part is the steepest, while mid – way section offers additional, left branch slope 9b, which is fabulous and demanding. each person is privileged to ski this slope. My son and I always do Tomba run for ten times, being there as early as possible, when it is well groomed  and with enough snow. 

Plato ski area on a perfect day, Bansko. Totaly empty slopes early in the morning with blue sky in the background

Plato ski area on a perfect day, Bansko

Just one day in a total union with nature is more than precious….

Tomba is surely among the best slopes for good skiers, among 70km of runs that Bansko can offer. With your quads being pumped to the maximum after skiing Tomba, you can ski back to Banderiska Poliana. You can easily calculate vertical drop of 1000m (3280ft), starting from the top lift station. Around 12.30PM, almost every slope is crowded.  Like in every ski resort, runs will be reshaped into difficult ones, with ice and hoopsters by 2PM. Be practical, and instead of staying up, choose to ski down the 6km (3.7mi) long ski road, as a natural link between Banderiska Poliana and Bansko town. You’ll love this non stop skiing on the ski road, with being aware of numerous beginners around you, learning their first skiing steps. After 10 min, please turn right to reach  lower ski area, called Chalin Valog. This is absolutely the right place to be in afternoon.

You have only a few runs to ski in Chalin Valog, but they are pretty quiet and with no queues for the lift. Test yourself on a very short black No.15, which then merges into easy and long red No. 15. Honestly, black one has sections steeper even than Tomba. It requires serious focus, while red one provides fabulous options for high speed, wide carving or shorter slalom turns.

To break this routine, let your next run to start from black No.16 allowing you to ski longer steep slope. Last part is an easy blue run, which ends at the modern ski lift, just next to vibrant cafe – restaurant. View of Todorka summit and the upper slopes, from Chalin Valog is just stunning. After a while, you can finally relax and ski down the last part of the ski road to Bansko town.

On the way, please observe century old forests, hidden small restaurants and mountain rivers. You cannot miss smiley faces of skiers, and all other people involved in a unique melting pot called “perfect day on snow”. “Just one day, in a total union with nature, is more than precious”, I vispered to my son at the end. “We are so fortunate to have this opportunity dad. Can we ski even more tomorrow?”, he replied with his eyes shining with genuine childish excitement. He feels the spirit of nature so profoundly and I am so proud of him. This was my thought, while both of us looked up, towards Todorka summit.

Until we meet again, tomorrow…

Bansko skiing is mastered. My son and I are posing with mountain snowy peaks behind us

Notice: article images are made by Jonnie World Walker team.

Ready to explore more?

Enjoy spectacular performance in a super-g race by famous ski champion Mikaela Schiffrin while she is winning gold in Bansko FIS World Cup in 2020.

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