Food fairytale at Bergen fish market
Bergen has shown the purest symbiosis between people, nature and food, from the Viking times. Nowadays, I was privileged to experience it’s iconic fish market, which will continue to shape Bergen’s culinary character forever…
Will never forget June of 2019., while flying from Reykjavik to Bergen. On the way from the airport, I observed every detail. It was a clear pinnacle of Norwegian high living standard, combined with incredible respect to the nature and its treasures. It seemed that Bergen existed in symbiosis with nature for centuries, and I was about to experience it, step by step.
Cloudy, greyish day, with some rain did not disturb harmony around the old port of Bergen. Bus was approaching perfectly located Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz, located just a few steps form Bryggen historic district protected by UNESCO. Peaceful evening was the right moment for the initial stroll. My first choice was Bryggen, and I enjoyed admiring Hanseatic League heritage, which powerful German merchants created in the XIV century.
Bergen Old Town (Bryggen) houses
Bergen’s iconic fish market
Almost intact, colorful wooden houses around the port were calling me to explore more. I agreed, but first, I needed to reach Norwegian “temple of sea food” as soon as possible. Bergen fish market was there, already lit up , as a gate to the infinite flavors of the North Sea. This first glimpse was of huge importance. I knew my first meal here would happen next day, or maybe on a sunny day after tomorrow with my friends. Seeing it alone, one on one and capturing every detail, was precious. I could spend hours, even days around these market stalls! “One meal a day should be done here” I thought. This became the best food decision of my life.
Sea food snack sandwiches, Bergen fish market
Next day, sun bathed morning promised a lot. Hotel breakfast was fascinating. I made it long one, starting with a spoon of traditional Moller’s Tran – North Sea Cod Liver Oil. Healthy Norwegians start using it from their kindergarten age. After superb morning hours, and the city sightseeing, it was about right time for lunch. My great friend from Wyoming was there to join me, with her unbeatable adventurous spirit and sense of humor. Everything was set, and the “party” at the Bergen fish market begun. Stalls were simply loaded with all kinds of food coming from the sea, in the freshest possible form. Local vendors were born for what they do. Every single detail you would like to know about, was ready to be explained in a super kind way. There was no pushing for the purchase, but offer of vendor’s knowledge on fishing, sea food and nature. It was so tough to decide where to sit and eat, due to incredible choice of daily sea food catch. We were so tempted by bright orange fillets of Norwegian salmon, giant king crabs, shrimps of all kinds, cods and sardines, octopuses and tanks full of freshest lobsters ever.
You just need to point out what you want, and the same delicacy will be cooked or grilled in front of your eyes. All the best flavors will be kept just for you. This amazing tradition of a local sea food market in Bergen probably dates from 1200s, when it was a part of the old town. The one of today, developed during XVI century, in need to provide fresh fish for all citizens, not only for privileged, rich German merchants. I was walking through the same market, discovering superb quality salmon caviar in cans and “tooth paste” tubes. Canned crab meat was there, with varieties of smoked salmon and whale slices. Dried cods were like a sea food curtain, while smell of perfectly grilled shrimp skewers, was more than touching.
Whale steak at Bergen fish market
Even for those food souls searching for non sea food options, Bergen fish market offers fast food from the forest. Some delicacies are similar to hot dogs, with deer or lamb sausage. Others include super tasty dark, cured meats, made of deer or moose.
Feast of a life time
After seeing all of this, we could not resist to finally sit and order. Lobster was a must. Not any other type of lobster, but Norwegian one prepared with a pinch of garlic, parsley and olive oil. We wanted some nicely grilled king crabs and shrimps with lemon as a snack. For my curiosity, I needed a portion of whale steak with mashed potatoes and cabbage. You cannot find whale meat everywhere. It can be considered a taboo type of food as well. But whale meat in Norwegian diet is something between connection with medieval times, and modern respect of the natural balance. Only a small number of mink whales, who are in abundance in Norwegian sea waters, could be hunt and served. It tastes somewhere between fish and beef. Structure was way more spongy than beef, with more proteins, and I truly preferred squeezing some lemon over it.
Sea food feast, Bergen fish market
When all dishes came on the table, together with some potatoes and a salad, its was perfectly clear we were in the middle of a sea food feast of a lifetime. The only thing missing was unique 7 Fjell Gold Ale Beer, the only beer you can get at the Bergen fish market. It is produced exclusively for this market, with only 2.5% of alcohol. That’s why we needed many bottles. Sweetish beer flavor was perfectly balanced with whale, and specially lobsters tale full of delicious meat. It took a while and a number of napkins to finish this medieval style of lunch. Even with all that eaten food, I felt light and healthy. Paying around 270$ for two, was fair enough for tradition, freshness and privileged location.
Being so absorbed by the experience, decision was made. We are going to have a dinner next day at Bergen fish market, just after exploring magical Norwegian fjords. And we did it. Night version of this sea food kingdom was about to be mastered. This time, we added cheap, but huge portions of crispy fish and chips as a starter. I felt so familiar with everything that came to our table. It was like I lived here for a long time, visiting this market on a daily basis, surrounded by history and kindness of the locals.
Peaceful night was embracing Bergen port, with clear starry sky above, and the North Sea in front. Only one, tiny part of the city, perfectly disturbed this harmony – the fish market, with its own pulse that will shape culinary character of Bergen forever.
Travel Authentic. Live Inspired.
Tempting Norwegian lobster, Bergen fish market
Notice: article images are made by Jonnie World Walker team.
Ready to explore more?
♣
I managed to find the right moment, with just a few people around the iconic Bergen Fish Market. It was the best chance to have a proper look on the fascinating choice of food offered on every stall. Check out this footage by Jonnie World Walker.
Bergen fish market
