In the shadows of Kuala Lumpur Downtown

by Apr 17, 2020Malaysia

Downtown of Kuala Lumpur is a highly dynamic patchwork of marvels of futuristic architecture, tropical vegetation, flavors of superbly fresh local food and Malaysian people, who truly love their capital city…

What always intrigued me, was a possibility for deeper insight into the world of major business metropolitan cities in Asia. The one bursting with ultra modern architecture, combined with exotic vegetation and spectacular food is Kuala Lumpur, proud capital of Malaysia.

Remembering exciting scenes with Cathrerine Zeta Jones and Sean Connery running over the bridge between famous Petronas Towers in the movie “Entrapment”, I set my target to visit Kuala Lumpur, as a gate to mysterious and prosperous Asia.

Finally, last summer, I planned a fabulous summer holiday for my family in Bali. Before reaching Indonesia, a four days stop in Kuala Lumpur was a chance, not to be missed. One hour private transfer from Kuala Lumpur International Airport to the city center provided more than we needed. It was so great passing next to famous Sepang Formula 1 circuit, experiencing very good road network and highways while endless palm tree plantations were literally everywhere.

Kuala Lumpur Eco Park as a mix of exotic and modern

Kuala Lumpur Eco Park as a mix of exotic and modern

Refreshing kids pool in KL Eco Park overlooked by Petronas Towers

Refreshing kids pool in Kuala Lumpur Eco Park

In the distance, parts of the downtown could be seen. Gentle hills around the city were coming up, with some interesting jungle type vegetation and the confluence of Klang and Gombak rivers. Although not a perfect location for a city, due to malaria potential, less than a hundred Chinese tin minors founded first settlement here in 1857.

Jonnie among Petronas Towers

Jonnie among Petronas Towers

Who would guess that a small town named “muddy estuary” or Kuala Lumpur in Malayan language, would grow to a population of half a million in only 100 years. During 1990s, Malaysian capital exploded, attracting numerous international companies. Furthermore, stately owned Petronas Oil Company, established itself as an absolute symbol of Malaysian expanding economy.

My thoughts on Kuala Lumpur’s evolution was interrupted by shining lights of its downtown. We were just arriving to our Park View Apartments Building. Renting a very nice, modern apartment on the 13th floor, with amazing view over the city center and fabulous roof top terrace and pool, was only 510 MYR (Malaysian Ringgit) or 120$ for three nights for the family of three. We were right in the heart of Kuala Lumpur downtown, on a short walking distance from all the landmarks. We could not wait tomorrow morning to start exploring, but a good night sleep to overcome jetlag comes first.

exploring kUALA lUMPUR DOWNTOWN

Bright and clear morning promised a lot. From where else to start in Kuala Lumpur, but from its symbol of prosperity – KLCC complex, with gigantic Petronas Twin Towers and exotic Eco Park. Six minutes walk from our apartment, and we  already entered green paradise of public KLCC Eco Park. Modern Convention Centre and jogging trails  were combined with amazing playgrounds for kids. Diverse tropical plants, waterfall/pool playground full of cheerful children, plus numerous wooden bridges and statues created such a pleasant atmosphere. It was easy to find always necessary shade, to sit and relax. Park is so well maintained, enabling perfect harmony with the overlooking Petronas Twin Towers. Officially the tallest twin towers in the world reaching 452m (1483ft), were designed by Argentinian born architect Cesar Pelli. His vision included 88 floors with spectacular double deck sky bridge on the 41st and 42nd floor. In addition, amazing observation deck on 86th floor provides unforgettable view over Kuala Lumpur metropolitan area. 

Lights of Kuala Lumpur Downtown

The whole structure resembles letter M, symbolizing Malaysia. Top of each tower is shaped in the form of eight pointed star, based on Islamic geometrical forms. It took seven years starting from 1992. to fit every detail into this grandiose project.  It included 33.000 stainless steel and 55.000 glass panels specialized with light filtering and noise reduction, visors for sun protection, plus super modern elevators and equipment for offices and interior spaces.

Today, one tower is fully occupied by Petronas  – National Petrol Company of Malaysia while the other hosts world’s most prominent companies like Boeing, Microsoft, IBM or Barclays. It is certainly worth paying around 20$ for a Petronas Towers tour, but try to do it in advance. People are simply rushing up to the top so time slots are mostly booked. No worries even if you are not able to go up. Monumentality of Petronas Towers is all around. During daylight they are proudly shining in the sun, while  evening and night bring an interplay of colors, lights, music and fountains  and create magical atmosphere. If you are ready for a lunch around KLCC then just explore ground floor level just next to Petronas Towers, where fancy world of Suria Shopping Mall rises in front of you. If you prefer  high fashion and jewelry instead of lunch, that’s fine, but  just a few floors down, immense supermarket will bring all the flavors of the world to your plate. It’s a place to experience culinary delights from every part of  the globe and pay quite normal, affordable price. Just grab what you want, pay, bring it to your room and enjoy your meal.

Suria KLCC Mall sushi delights

Suria KLCC Mall sushi delights

Sweet delicacies in Suria Shopping Mall. Variety of cakes brilliantly decorated

Sweet delicacies in Suria Shopping Mall

Local street food delights

If you prefer something truly local, then walk to reach tiny Jalan Law Yew Swee street, hidden between tall modern structures, just next to our Park View Apartment building. My God how cheap you can eat here! Small local trucks one next to the other, open their stands, plastic tables and chairs are ready, while loads of home made food starts to smell so good. For 20$, my wife, my son and I had a feast. We chose varieties of Nasi Campur (mixed rice) which in reality stands for different vegetable and meat (ayan or chicken) dishes served with rice. Then we switched to crispy Ikan Bakar (local fish grilled in banana leaves), with a pinch of sambal belacan sauce to spice it up, sometimes too much.

Cheapest local delicacies among skyscrapers

Cheapest local delicacies among skyscrapers

Street food on every corner. Truck as a food stall, Kuala Lumpur Downtown

Street food on every corner, Kuala Lumpur Downtown

For the end, taste compressed rice cake (Lontong), cooked in banana leaf and cocoa milk or a super fresh, juicy fruit salad (buah potong). Trust me, you will never eat anything else but street food, when exploring Kuala Lumpur. A few hours of rest in your air conditioned room, after this type of meal is essential. High temperatures and specially humid air contribute to body exhaustion after a while, so just relax in your room, and start moving during the afternoon. Our route continued towards the main shopping area and the most dynamic boulevard – Bukit Bintang. On the way, luxury hotels, apartment buildings and tropical plants were lining up in every street.

Luxury shoping in kuala lumpur

While walking, it was so clear how newly born skyscrapers and those who are still to be built,  reduced side walks to their minimum. Using tunnels and passages above the road network to reach different parts of the city is something very common in Kuala Lumpur. However, the most effective type of transport is either iconic monorail trains, or highly modern and super clean subway system.

Our stroll through Star Hill Avenue (Bukit Bintang)  was loaded with glamour, glittering crystals, diamonds, ultra designed dresses, purses, shoes and everything else that belong to a modern, high fashion mania. Endless list of shopping malls needs to include famous Pavilion or immense Berjaya Times Square Mall, and finally, Star Hill Mall – absolute pinnacle of Kuala Lumpur’s luxury, hidden in a “black space ship” type of architecture.

Kulala Lumpur Monorail train

Kulala Lumpur Monorail

Who buys these items? Is there really such a strong need for so many exclusive shops all around the city, when the average Malaysian salary is around 650$ per month? This only shows how Kuala Lumpur rapidly grown to 1.5 million people, futuristic mega city. It became pure magnet for new businesses and one of the leading cities in Aisa.

Bukit Bintang Avenue

Bukit Bintang Avenue

Jewel among downtown food avenues

After a while, it was time to leave this fancy world, and find something nice and authentic for an early dinner. Thanks God, we were so close to Jalan Alor street, a jewel among food avenues in Kuala Lumpur. This was exactly what I prefer: hundreds of side restaurants, with picturesque menus, dynamic waiters advertising their culinary delights, seating area nothing more than plastic chairs and tables and simple counters selling most imaginative seafood skewers.

Tempting grilled street food, Kuala Lumpur Downtown

Tempting grilled street food, Kuala Lumpur Downtown

Jalan Alor food street

Jalan Alor food street

Bao dumplings on Jalan Alor food avenue

Bao dumpling on Jalan Alor food avenue

Smoke from loaded grills was spreading around, calling us to come and sit. Tender bao dumplings wanted to be picked instantly, and I simply did not know where to start. What a fabulous mosaic of flavors! Evening was slowly coming down to downtown’s hustle and bustle. We took a short walk and had a drink on Changkat Bukit Bintang street. During late night hours, this is where you need to be, merge with the crowd and feel the rhythm of Kuala Lumpur’s night life. With all the excitement, on our way back, we could not resist to briefly stop for a “night magic” around Petronas Towers. We set close to colorful lights of the music fountain,  observing cheerful faces of curious visitors and two mighty towers above us. It was time to walk back to our pool on top of a skyscraper. First day itinerary was planned to be done with no historical monuments included. Feeling true vibe of this fascinating downtown was our priority.

Warm night, relaxing sound of water in the pool, superb view of famous KL Tower and the lights of Kuala Lumpur, proved that even a brand new metropolis, with its innovative architecture, its people, parks, food and unique city dynamics, can easily impress the rest of the world.

Eco Park Music Fountain, Kuala Lumpur Downtown

Travel Authentic. Live Inspired.

Eco Park Music Fountain, Kuala Lumpur Downtown

Article images are made by Jonnie World Walker team.

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