MIKULOV – hidden soul of Moravia

by Apr 10, 2020Central Europe

Discovering Mikulov town, in Czech Moravia region, proved how hidden examples of perfectly preserved baroque towns, combined with noble charm and incredible wines still exist…

It was warm and sunny September 2019., when I guided a group of well traveled friends, my fellow Americans, through fascinating parts Eastern and Central Europe. That was our second tour together, so the whole team was known and ready to learn and discover. Seeing passion and enthusiasm among my travelers, gained plenty of ideas on how to personally create some “out of the itinerary” highlights, and reach authenticity on tour.

Main Town square, Mikulov, Czech Republic

Main Town square, Mikulov, Czech Republic

Mikulov – Moravia’s  jewel

Bus ride from marvellous Krakow in Poland towards Austria provided enough space for both coach commentaries, friendly chats and traditional music. We were passing Polish industrial city of Katowice, then came Ostrava, historical Olomouc and Brno in Czech Republic. My plan for a surprise visit was set, and with no special announcement we were closer and closer to the south – eastern tip of Czech Republic, and Moravia region jewel – Mikulov town.

Pamona Fountain with St. Wenceslas's Church behind, Mikulov

Pamona Fountain and St. Wenceslas’s Church, Mikulov

Close to the border with Austria, among the plains of Thaya river and Nove Mlyni lakes, stands an elevated rock, on which fascinating fortified baroque town is nestled.  I promised a pinch of Moravian charm to my people, while walking slightly up to reach the main street. Namesti promenade shown nice examples of XIX century architecture with colorful, charming houses. Ground floors are mostly used for souvenir shops, artistic studios and cafes, and we truly loved exploring them.

mikulov in the past

Namesti Street, Mikulov, Czech Republic

Namesti Street, Mikulov, Czech Republic

Mikulov Central Square, Moravia, Czech Republic

Try to imagine medieval layout, when in 1173. this town was mentioned in written documents for the first time. It was a long way for Mikulov to be transformed from a provincial town with ramparts, to Moravian hub of trade and aristocracy. During XVI century, a few terrible fires in the inner town destroyed former, dominantly gothic, appearance and the time for revival was there. Two  centuries of glory came with influential cardinal-bishop of Olomouc – Franz von Ditrichstein. He took the estate in 1611. embellishing Mikulov to be worth of his dignified status. Inspired by Italian Renaissance, Ditrichstein Family started to reshape this town like never before. Final baroque touch was brilliantly done by Fisher von Erlach and Lukas Hildebrandt – architects responsible for iconic Belvedere and Schonbrunn palaces in Vienna.

Charming Mikulov Stroll

Mikulov was a shining star of Moravia for centuries, until April 1945., when it was burned almost to the ground. With careful and long restauration, Mikulov was reborn, with all its glory. We all felt that on the historic, main square framed by XVI and XVII century houses  adorned with balconies full of red flowers. The only one with distinctive biblical graffiti facade, is the oldest, and most famous Knights house, from 1591.

Famous Knights House with graffiti facade, Mikulov

Famous Knights House, Mikulov

If warm weather in Mikulov requires a soft drink or a local beer, ground floor of the Knights House is  the right place to taste Moravian Starobrno beer. It goes so well with local goulash and dumplings, so try not to miss the opportunity. Glorified, baroque Holy Trinity column dominates central part of the square. From there, your sight catches immense facade of St. Anne’s Church, built by the famous architect Fisher fon Erlach. Its two bell towers and spectacular tomb-chapel of  the noble Ditrichstein family are just a part of this magnificent church.

Iconic Pamona Fountain, Mikulov, Moravia

Iconic Pamona Fountain, Mikulov, Moravia

Holy Trinity Column, Mikulov, Moravia

Holy Trinity Column, Mikulov, Moravia

Charming symbol of the main town square is 1700. fountain of Pamona. Dedicated to Roman goddess of orchards and gardens, it was formerly used as the main water supply for the inner city population. Pamona fountain is like a special invitation for romantic, castle gardens.  Together with monumental Mikulov Castle, it totally represents domination of Ditrichstein dynasty. Castle’s architectural features date back from XVIII century. German army decided to burn it down, during withdrawal by the end of WWII. Today, fully restored, it proudly overlooks vast lands of Moravia and keeps Mikulov’s history by housing valuable collection of the  Regional Museum.

Mikulov Castle and garden’s entrance

Mikulov Castle and garden's entrance postcard view, Moravia
Mikulov Castel Garden detail

Back to the main square, walking tour leads next to St.Wenceslas’s Church, whose oldest parts date back from the XV century. You will be surprised by additional, lavish baroque alternations of the interior. Do not miss to explore Husova street, former heart of the second largest Jewish community in Czech Republic. Jews lived here in a perfect harmony with other nationalities for centuries, until mid 1800s. Twelve synagogues of Mikulov are lost today, except one that survived brutality of Nazi regime in Czechoslovakia.

Narrow streets are leading visitors more uphill, hiding shops and superb wine cellars. Famous Palava hills vineyards offer, maybe the best white wine in central Europe. I regularly run up to reach medieval ruin of “The Goat Tower”, then taste  some new types of wine or to grab some local cheese. Stroll through Mikulov always make me thinking of Palava harvest and wine festivity during second weekend in September, when entire south Moravia lives for the magic of wine.

Moravian products shop with shelves full of jams, spices, cold cuts and wines, Mikulov

Moravian products shop, Mikulov

If you have time, experience places even beyond Mikulov. How about visiting impressive, neo-gothic Lednice Castle, or enjoying spectacular wine tasting in Valtice town. My group and I could not do it this time. Drive to Vienna was ahead of us, to close this dynamic day. If you ask me, I would rather stay in Mikulov a bit more, to enjoy Moravian soul in a town whose picturesqueness surpassed all our expectations.

Bottle of Filip Mlynek White Wine, Mikulov

Bottle of Filip Mlynek White Wine, Mikulov

Mikulov Castle facade

Travel Authentic. Live Inspired.

Mikulov Castle side facade

Notice: article images are made by Jonnie World Walker team.

Ready to explore more?

Mikulov Town and beauty of Moravia are even more impressive when seen from above. Check out this unique coverage by Rafal Dworak and fall in love with Mikulov forever…

If you are ready to learn more fascinating tales about Mikulov, its tradition, history and amazing white wines please visit this website. Mikulov Tourist Board is ready to present their town and motivate you to come and visit.