Nikolaiviertel – Charming heart of Berlin

Imagine how everything looked different when a trade route in the XIII century passed through this quarter. There was a road over Spree river and two tiny separate settlements Koln and Berlin, existing on both sides of the river. Except of that, nothing existed around, but vast green areas and marshy land created by local rivers. For the first town settlers, it was essential to chose a patron saint and gather around the first parish church. That is how St.Nicholas came in, as a protector of sailors, fishermen, merchants and even brewers. Prosperity of this district culminated with unification of Koln and Berlin to found one single town Berlin in 1237. It is still considered  a year when capital of modern Germany was born. Layout of streets and squares was something typical for that time: narrow, short, winding streets gravitating around the parish church square. The same pattern stayed preserved even today.

This beautiful interplay of colors, flavors, new creative ideas and positive energy of the place, was heavily interrupted during WWII, and bombing in 1944. Centuries of Berlin’s history disappeared and Nikolaiviertel turned into a rubble. Uncertainty  and tensions stretched throughout the “cold war” era. Half ruined Nikolaiviertel, as a part of East Berlin was waiting for rebirth. Light of hope came with the new project of detailed reconstruction of Nikolaiviertel, based on all available historical documents. Everything was planned to be finished for the 750^th anniversary of foundation of Berlin. After 1987. Nikolaiviertel was alive and lovely again. The only detail that distracts the architectural unity, are parts of  grey and yellowish communist style building facades, framing this district. Visitors cannot imagine that behind them, the most beautiful part of Berlin reveals its secrets.

I love entering Nikolaiviertel through Am Nussbaum tiny street, leaving behind all the crowd and noise of busy city center of Berlin. And then comes unique transfer through time: nicely decorated stores, authentic souvenir shops, antique shops with a character, old fashioned bars and wrought iron signs above taverns and restaurants… All mentioned, lead you through a totally different, romantic Berlin. Just before reaching small parish church square, at the right corner is one of the oldest taverns, famous Zum Nussbaum Inn from 1705. It was named by the nut tree that used to stand in front of the restaurant. Maybe its delicious local dishes, like schnitzel or a goulash, together with typical Berliner Kindl beer, inspired Heinrich Zille to immortalize this iconic corner and a restaurant on one of his paintings. He simply loved to enjoy small, idyllic restaurant garden during summer months.

Looking up, your sight can reach the top of a twin spire as a part of late gothic St. Nicholas’s church, built in 1230. It became not only the oldest parish in Berlin, but the center of religious and social life for the first inhabitants as well. Importance continued to grow no matter of a few stylistic transformations through the centuries. Furthermore, it reached political role, when several times, church served as the official assembly building. Nowadays, St. Nicholas’s church is an authentic museum with an exhibition that tells more than enough : “From the base of the city, to the double spire”. That’s the way to successfully unify all historical artefacts and connect past and present.

If you are wandering around Nikolaiviertel on Friday afternoon, try not to miss a perfect reminiscent of religious music, by attending organ concert at 5 p.m.  Stop for a minute and check out an interesting memorial medallion on the pavement in front of the church. It represents the first coat of arms from the time when Berlin received a city status. You can take a nice photo in front of The Foundation Fountain, with old coat of arms at the base and a symbol of Berlin – statue of a bear holding the shield with an eagle.

Lunch or dinner at Brauhaus Georgbreau Restaurant is a special traditional delight. If you sit outside, then get ready to experience the best known beer garden in Nikolaviertel, with colorful  flowers, and river just next to you. Interior wooden furniture brings  warm spirit of a brewery, while you are looking towards copper kettles of restaurant’s own beer production. It’s your time to enjoy bites of tender pork knuckle with sauerkraut or a warm, tasty potato soup. Evening stroll down the Spreeufer – narrow waterfront promenade is a must. Overlooking boat cruises and traditional bars and restaurants offering adorable apfelstrudel (apple strudel), you can feel both noble and bohemian touch. Adding a bit of elegant and rustic surrounding, creates very special Nikolaiviertel atmosphere.

All year round, this city quarter of Berlin brings more and more explorers willing to dive into the real history of  this mega – metropolis. Some of them, being blessed to visit Berlin multiple times, choose Nikolaiviertel because of one and true feeling of being so warmly welcomed. In a cosy little town in the heart of Berlin, with just a few streets, it seems that every corner has its story and authentic experience is guaranteed.