Summertime in Zermatt

Even just traveling to Zermatt was something special, when I jumped on a Glacier Express train in Andermatt. Scenic train route on a nicely designed panoramic coach took me through beautiful landscapes, passing towns of Brig, Visp and Tasch before reaching Zermatt. What stroke me instantly was immense attention to protect natural habitat of the area. Using a car or a bus to travel, means you’ll need to stop in Tasch town and from there to take a shuttle train to Zermatt. No chance for any petrol powered vehicles here. Just choose to walk or eventually use electric buses or e-cabs to help you on your route around. That makes the air incredibly clean and fresh, while  slopes coming down from Breithorh, Unterrothorn and Gornergrath peaks, power it even more with spruce, silver fir, larch and Swiss stone pine forests.

Future looked even brighter when British explorer Edward Whymper and his team, climbed Matterhorn for the first time ever, in July 1865. Mr.Seiler  financed  Riffelberg Hotel and superb Riffelalp Resort on a hill above the town, securing popularity and fascination with Zermatt till modern times.

Today, this small town of close to 6000 lucky inhabitants looks like a stage for the best Alpine movie, a fairy tale village where all wishes come true. And I was there,  having a chance to familiarize with every part of it. Nice walk down the Bahnofstrasse enabled true experience of the prime promenade in Zermatt. Excited faces of hikers, climbers, adventurers and daily visitors were here searching for their piece of eternity, while trying to do some shopping, no matter how expensive it can be. A few souvenirs are just fine, maybe a pair of discounted hiking shoes, or some high quality mountain gear, but bringing them from Zermatt means a lot.

Cafes and restaurants, squeezed between fancy shops are lining up the main street. On the left comes an elegant Mont Cervin Palace, glamourous XIX century style hotel, where 428€ per night for a double standard room enables nobility style accommodation. A few steps further legendary Monte Rosa Hotel stands, as the oldest in town, with separate Whymper Stube Restaurant. Space of this small dining area was a room where local mountain guides used to meet rich explorers, to start ascent to Matterhorn.  It was here, on July 14th, 1865. that Edward Whymper met Peter Taugwalder and his son, who knew the best how to conquer famous summit.

And they did it.

Today in the same room, refurbished for guests, you can taste a bit of history, by ordering “Matterhorn Menu” for around 100CHF per person, including wine . Platter of dried local beef, pickled pearl onions, gherkins, some nice apricot chutney and jacked potatoes are waiting for perfect warm raclette to come over. After this rich starter, please enjoy tender grilled beef fillet with herb butter and mix salad, while sweet creamy sorbet Valaisan with apricots will successfully round up this local feast. A few glasses of nice Dole de Monts, red wine from Sion, and you will start thinking how you truly belong to XIX century aristocracy. Just across the street you cannot miss modern glass structure of Matterhorn Museum. For 10 CHF per per person, exhibition takes you through XIX century Zermatt with special attention to discovered body of a XVI century mercenary soldier who was frozen to death while crossing dangerous Theodul mountain pass. Popular Marmots Fountain from 1906. is just next to the museum. Sculpture of life sized bronze ibex is welcoming you just before museum entrance, showing typical fauna of Zermatt and surroundings. At this point, main street merges into a small, but charming central square where town hall and parish Church of St. Mauritius stand as dominant monuments.

No matter of almost medieval origins, this form of a church with an elegant spire dates back from 1913. A few interesting murals and gigantic alphorn, can be noticed at the entrance steps. This marks an idyllic photo stop, with old houses aside and Matterhorn as the background. Famous bronze alphorn, with its larch branches inside and seven small human figures climbing it, commemorates 150 years from legendary quest  to climb the Matterhorn summit.  Symbolism is also conneted with the most traditional Swiss instrument – alphorn, formerly used by mountain dwellers all over the country. Just behind a church, you can find unique small cemetery dedicated to mountaineering heroes of the XIX century, who lost their lives trying to reach their glory on top of Matterhorn. From there, just a minute walk down the tiny street brings you to the English Quarter. It is full of authentic houses and small gardens used by local farmers, and the English church as a memory to British nobility that shaped Zermatt throughout its history.

Five hundred years old houses, barns, storage spaces and stables are lining up one after the other. Many of them are resting on flat stone slabs and stilts to keep away mice and rats, while local larch timber dominates as building material. Since it is highly rich in resin, this type of timber is highly moisture and pests resistant.  Heavy slabs on the roof press the whole structure hard enough to ensure great stability. After being back through time, I always prefer a nice easy hike during clear and sunny afternoon. Just keep walking to reach perfectly clean Vispa river, coming down from Gornergrat and Monte Rosa glaciers.

After crossing a bridge, in a few minutes, you are at the ticket office of  Zermatt – Matterhorn cable car. If you want to see how the  biggest glacier park in the Alps looks like, then board a cable car to the top, for 104 CHF roundtrip. Make sure you have warm clothes ready since you will reach Europe’s highest cable car station at 3.883m (12.740 Ft) and fascinating Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, where skiing is available 365 days a year. The only point higher than your position will be mighty steep pyramid of Matterhorn reaching 4.478m (14.692 Ft). But lets focus on lower altitudes and enjoy real summer beauty, by choosing a short cable car ride from Zermatt to Furi. Pay 12 CHF for one way ride since spectacular hike down to Zermatt will be your return ticket. Signs for more than 400km of hiking routes are so accurate and well posted, that all you need to do is to follow direction to Zmutt village, relax and enjoy your easy hike, like never before. Stunning nature is accepting you as a VIP guest. Flowers and super green meadows are around, overlooked by sharp mountain peaks. Crossing suspension bridge over the river brings you to the greenest part of this route, leading you to fascinating Zmutt village. Please have a short brake on a wooden terrace of Jagerstube restaurant in Zmutt.

Last time in Zmutt, sun was shining above old wooden houses and slopes were embracing the valley. Cold beers and warm fondue were on the table to share it with friends, and a view over Matterhorn in the distance to make it even more spectacular. I never felt more Alpine magic than during that day. Final hour of hike should be a combination of looking ahead  admiring nestled Zermatt, and looking back for fascinating views of Matterhorn. My perfect day in the Swiss Alps was close to the end. Mind and body were in absolute harmony – the effect only Alpine landscapes can provide.

Walking back to my cosy Best Western Butterfly Hotel, I was so grateful for this opportunity and so aware of importance of Zermatt’s cultural, developmental and natural heritage. Its setting, beauty of the valley and Matterhorn as an icon among mountains, represents an outstanding ambient that touches every human soul.