Surfing way of life in Bali
Bali island in Indonesia firmly stands as one of the most exciting surfing paradises in the world. Admiring that unique dancing on the waves, makes you super motivated to try it for yourself and visit iconic surfing beaches…
Uluwatu surfing flag with waves of a lifetime
As a person connected with sports throughout my life, I was always waiting for my five minutes of glory, riding a nice wave on a surf board. From Hawaii to California, from Portuguese coastline to Shri Lanka, those videos intrigued me so much, and above all it looked so smooth and easy. My family summer vacation in Indonesian island of Bali gave me a chance to prove my “talent”. Enjoying the spirit of Nusa Dua, famous town-resort on the southern tip of the island, among other daily activities, one hour of surfing lesson for my son was certainly something to analyze. I expected to pay higher price, due to fancy character of Nusa Dua. Paying 16 to 20$ for an hour with instructor was absolutely affordable. You get your surfing vest, big wide surf board for beginners and you are ready for the initial surfing in Bali.
Nusa Dua beach surfing
Traditional Balinese fishing boats on the beach
Nusa Dua beach is quite reliable for your first steps in surfing due to smaller type of waves. Specially around the edge of famous Peninsula Island, you can find a small bay, which reduces power of the big waves, coming from the open ocean. Only caution should be rocky bottom of the bay, but with proper surfing rubber shoes, its totally fine. My eight years old son had a total of 7-8 lessons and I was quite impatient, not being able to understand why he keeps falling from the board during first lessons. Day after day and he was able to catch a few waves, standing firmly on board, being pushed some 30m (100ft) before falling down. Still thinking how easy is to surf, I was expecting more from him. Finally, I decided to try for myself and show to my son how, without any practice, I can surf the wave. After a few minutes, only lying on board and pedaling with hands, it was pretty exhausting. Then came the real staff, and many attempts to catch the wave. After 45min of “torture”, think my record was 1 second of standing on a surf board.
Then sliding into the water and pedaling back for another wave. My neck was tired of holding head constantly up, plus I could not catch my breath. Disappointment was huge and I just floated back to the shore like being shipwrecked. Finally, I realized how brilliant my son’s achievement was. At the end, if I could not learn quickly to surf, at least I can hire a driver and bring my family to the most iconic beaches to watch and admire the real professional surfing in Bali.
Before that, we decided to make a second step in surfing difficulty level, and visit vibrant Kuta Beach. It is located around twenty minutes drive, north west from Nusa Dua. Kuta town shown reality and authenticity of everyday life in Bali, with tourism influence as well. Compared with Nusa Dua fancy character, Kuta totally radiates with positive chaos. Crazy traffic, locals and tourists all around, traditional restaurants squeezed between famous fast food chains are just a part of super dynamic Kuta. It seemed like all the energy is transferred directly on a beach. Local vendors were constantly passing by, beer selling stands were multiplying rapidly, reaching hundreds in the afternoon while tattoo masters offered some nice designs just for you.
Kuta beach, Bali
Kuta beach, Bali
It was clear how everything was cheaper here, compared with Nusa Dua. Even surfing lessons were cheap, and offered on every step. In one moment we could face hundred motivated kids and adults in the water learning how to surf. Waves were way bigger then we were used to, so we skipped real surfing and replaced it with simple jumping and diving through Kuta Beach waves. After this adventure we were ready for the real staff.
Charm and beauty of Uluwatu surfing paradise
Dreamland beach
It took 35 min. drive from Nusa Dua to reach western side of Bukit peninsula and our first stop – Dreamland Beach. It was so visible how surfing becomes primary thing, compared with quite pristine beaches that we experienced so far. Dreamland beach shown serious waves you do not want to mess with. We felt enough wave force just by entering the water to my chest level, letting huge waves to hit us, or diving under to avoid them. Sea currents were so strong and water quickly became so deep that we did not want to risk to much. Experienced surfers loved it, and swam far from the shore to face the biggest waves and show their skills. Left side of the beach was beautifully carved by the ocean’s high tides, so semi caves and sharp edged cliffs were just perfect to admire.
Dreamland Beach. How to resist?
Padang Padang surfing paradise
Our adventure continued for another 20 min. drive to reach the most sacred surfing beach in Indonesia – Padang Padang. Every dedicated pro surfer in the world needs to step here at least once, and try to conquer some of the most incredible waves on the planet. I was so excited to check another legendary beach after those from Southern Europe and Brazilian Copacabana and Ipanema. Here, on Padang Padang, even an access to the beach provided some adrenaline. We needed to pay entrance fee of 10.000 IDR (Indonesian Ruffiah) or 0.70$, and walk down the narrow steps, winding through immense rock like a tunnel, before reaching an absolute paradise.
Small, beautiful beach was nestled between cliffs and tropical greenery stretching over the water. Rocky columns and formations that only forces of the ocean can sculpt, were around. One bohemian type cafe-restaurant was more than enough for a spectacular vibe, created by the surfers, and all the others searching for relaxing, Balinese beach – mood.
Pure beauty of Padang Padang Beach
Among the rocks of Padang Padang Beach
This is not a beach for an easy swim, due to high volume of surfers, and rocky sea bottom. In general, the whole ambience was stunning, with top class surfers in the distance, sneaking through the “tube” of a perfect wave. Surfing in Bali was there with all the adrenaline and beauty.
sURFING WAVES OF Suluban Beach
Leaving Padang Padang, loaded with excitement, we were ready for another 15 min drive following coastal road with fascinating view points. Just between scenic Padang Padang and glorious cliffs and temple of Uluwatu, lies hidden surfing jewel – Suluban Beach. Ten minutes down the steps allows every visitor to experience this tiny town, which emerges from the top of the cliff. It seems like houses, bars, art shops, surf rentals and restaurants were built on top of each other, to fit perfectly with natural rocks around. I’ve never seen such a place that literally breathes and lives for surfing. We went more down the steps, briefly entertained by a local monkey, holding somebody’s sunglasses as a trophy. Finally, we stepped on a super soft golden strip of sand.
Iconic gates to the Uluwatu surfing world and me
Surfing paradise of Uluwatu
It was shaded by the rocky walls of a sea cave, and connected with the ocean by a big opening, simply ideal for surfers to start pedaling towards the open sea. This makes Suluban beach more a natural curiosity, than a real beach, but no matter of that, it is gorgeous.
It was about right time for lunch. One of the local, family run restaurants, simple table, ice cold Bintang beer, portion of nasi campur (mixed rice), grilled fish fillet and cheerful surfers around us, was all that we needed. That seemed like the essence of life. No matter how bad I was with the first surfing steps, here I felt like my family and I were a part of an important surfing documentary. Sitting there, I understood every piece of surfer’s way of life, their passion, and genuine contact with nature. Before leaving the restaurant, I stood up, hugged my wife and son, and looked upon endless blue tones of the ocean. They were intersected by 7m (23ft) high waves, with brave surfers on top. Power of the ocean, crashing on impressive rock cliffs, was the only sound in this serene moment of love for life, and endless spiritual enrichment.
I was so proud to be a part of it.
Travel Authentic. Live Inspired.
A glimpse of Uluwatu beauty in Bali
♣
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