Day stroll through Reykjavik

Reykjavik proudly stands as the capital of Iceland, keeping its cultural heritage, tradition and history. This is a place where everything is accepted with smile and kindness, where mythology meets modernity, overlooked by the glaciers, ocean and volcanoes…

“Warm” welcome to Reykjavik

No matter how cold it sounds, reality is that winters in Iceland are as cold, as in New York City. The only difference is that Reykjavik, with its tiny population of 130.000, represents two thirds of total population in Iceland. Reaching that remote land always causes excitement. This is exactly what happened when I landed to Reykjavik in June 2019. My luggage, with all cold weather equipment, was lost during London layover. I was left with European summer outfit and short sleeves.  That was just nothing compared with Iceland’s strong wind and close to zero temperature (32°F). That “warm” welcome to Reykjavik just increased my excitement. If I want to be a real Icelander, I need to pretend that even freezing was a pleasant feeling. First thing next morning and I was in a winter clothes store, buying some warm staff. Finally, and I was so ready and motivated to discover Reykjavik.

Historic tale of reyjkjavik

Main source to explain how everything started in Iceland, is famous Landamabok or “The Book of Settlements” from late XI and early XII century. It gives an insight of the first permanent settlers in 874 AD. While sailing from Norway, seafarer Ingolfur Arnarson saw some steam, rising from a hot spring and named it “The Smoky Bay” or Reykjavik. Influenced by fascinating Norse mythology, Iceland was not an easy country to convert to Christianity, which occurred during early 1000s by the brave King Olaf Tryggvason. Norwegian domination paved the road to Kalmar Union, when Denmark, Sweden and Norway became main colonial powers of the north. They extensively used Icelandic goods and manpower, to develop their trade routes and wealth. XVI century Reykjavik saw religious turn from Christianity to Lutheranism. It became the official state religion, until “religious freedom era” of the mid – 1800s. Real “Father of Reykjavik” – Skuli Magnusson introduced wool production to modernize Icelandic economy in the late XVIII century. It seems that “on the back of a sheep”, Reykjavik entered serious urban development. It became the only real city in Iceland, seat of the parliament, and finally, in 1944., the capital of the country.

Walking through Reykjavik

I wished to walk through every historical period of Reykjavik. Decision was made to start from the coastline, exploring how unpredicted nature of the ocean shaped the face of this city. And there, just next to the sea promenade, The Sun Voyager was proudly shining. This modern, stainless steel version of a Viking ship was designed by Jon Gunnar Arnason in 1990. It  strongly symbolizes Vikings past, and heritage of the Icelanders. Today, this is one of the city’s landmarks with a deep and profound design message. This ship represents a dream of hope, progress and freedom, and ode to the sun, leading it to the eternity.

Only ten minutes walk down the coastal walkway, with some Icelandic wind coming to greet you, will bring you to the most futuristic piece of  cityscape architecture – The Harpa. Initially, it was planned to be a part of immense World Trade Center of Reykjavik. However, due to financial crisis, this structure ended up alone, with its impressive steel framework covered with glass panels.

Saga museum, with it’s life size wax statues describes the earliest part of Icelandic history. Whales of Iceland Exhibition is where every visitor dives into the world of whales and deep blue ocean, in a highly interactive way. If you are thinking of a short break, or even a lunch, city district next the Old Port is  a perfect choice. It will amaze you with layout of streets and squares, old and more authentic architecture, and great variety of local food.

Delicious flavors of reykjavik

Fish Company Restaurant is, for sure, one of the most enjoyable places for lunch. Tasty lobster soup, super fresh catch of the day with side dish and a nice caramel tart, will cost you around 55.00$. A few minutes away is Messin Restaurant, with delicious arctic char prepared with almonds, cherry tomatoes, butter and lemon. Taste highly traditional plokkfiskur or “plucked fish” – dish where potatoes, onions, bechamel sauce and fish, are mixed in way you will never forget. Some quick bites are practical and very popular in Reykjavik. Try not to miss Rugbraud – rye bread topped with smoked salmon and cream cheese. Just imagine when this delicacy is served with ice cream, extra creamy butter, and crunchy lava salt, creating unforgettable taste of wild nature. If you eventually miss your hot dog, Reykjavik has something even better – Pylsur – Icelandic hot dog made of mixed beef, lamb and pork.

more city treasures to explore

New street pavement during 1880s coincided with a number of new businesses and a few local cafes. Slowly, it grown into a prime dynamic street of Reykjavik. Today, strolling more than a mile long street, you can feel an old spirit of XIX century progress, combined with numerous souvenir shops. Local and international restaurants are all around, plus numerous bars, pubs and superb outdoors equipment stores. One can find absolutely everything here: from wool and fir coats and Viking armory to statuettes of Norse mythology Gods Odin, Frigg, Thor or Freyja. Even polar teddy bears are here, mostly because of tourists. Icelanders mostly do not care at about those white puppets, simply because polar bears do not exist in Iceland. Smiley faces of locals are everywhere and you can feel the highest level of kindness on every step. Young parents could be seen quite often, even during winter time, leaving their baby to take a nap outside in a baby stroller, while they are enjoying a cup of tea or coffee in a bar. To me, it seemed like they start with famous Icelandic “strongmen tradition” from the early stage.

Sometimes people are curious to explore Mammal Phallic Museum and Icelandic Punk Museum, adding some unique educational experiences in Laugavegur street. To find some peace by the end of the day in Reykjavik walk ten minutes from this busy street, slightly uphill to reach one of the most unusual architecture of a church you’ve ever seen. Halgrimskirkja dominates the skyline of Reykjavik with its 74.5m (244ft) high bell tower, visible from any corner of the city. This Lutheran church strikes with distinctive architecture, inspired by the shapes of lava cooling into a basalt rock and glacier’s scars on the mountain slopes. Completed in 1986., it serves not only as a church , but as a symbolic temple, dedicated to Hallgrimur Petrusson . This famous XVII century poet, brilliantly wrote 50 poetic texts on Christ’s passion, today known as passion hymns.

Vast and acoustic interior of the church includes 25 tons, gigantic organs with 5275 pipes, magically contributing to a holy mass. Outside, on a spacious square, adorned with Icelandic national flags, stands a monument to another hero, whose name is often hidden among historical notes. Here, in Iceland, Leif Erikson will never be forgotten. His epic expedition across the Atlantic in 1000. secured him the eternal glory. He became the first European to have set foot on the Continental North America, somewhere around the Gulf of St.Lawrence. Standing next to the Leif Erikson’s statue, with monumental Halgrim’s Church behind me, I totally understood Icelanders. I valued so much their ability to survive, walking hand in hand with the powers of nature, their intriguing culture and tradition, motivation to explore without affecting others, their purified soul and smile that disarms instantly.

Among Vikings and Norse Mythology, Reykjavik

Notice: article images are made by Jonnie World Walker team.