When Serbian “BRONX” celebrates Christmas Eve

Everything started during XVIII century, when Big Liman was mentioned for the first time on the outskirts of Novi Sad. Word “liman” is actually geological term suggesting accumulated mud and silt at the mouth of the river. In case of Liman “Bronx”, proximity of Danube river formed marshy area, which was filled with sand during 1950s, and creation of new city blocks started. Layout of apartment buildings in greyish communist style, green areas and spacious playgrounds, was something quite inventive and practical for that time. At the end it turns out to be unmatched, even today.

Generations of people living in “Bronx” city block during ’70s and ’80s established strong sense of affiliation to a small territory and community, by promoting active life, unity, respect and responsibility, combined with bohemian touch. Younger generations growing up here knew perfectly well how to respect adults, while adults were always so aware of true and honest approach of supporting youth. Year after year, connections between people in the block became so firm, with huge dose of transparency and no chance for any fake feelings. This beautiful, spontaneous process grown day by day. For kids and youth, staying outside, on a playground, was a kind of a life school, supported by local adult heroes. This was ultimately combined with great ethics, which kids learned from their parents. Liman “Bronx” people became highly open minded, free from any political influences, criticizing any type of autocracy or dictatorship, while glorifying solidarity and friendship.

And then, very spontaneously, came an idea for a collective, city block, Orthodox Christmas Eve celebration. Every detail was planned to be ready for the night of January 6^th, final night before Christmas, which Orthodox Christians celebrate by the old, Julian Calendar. It is difficult to describe excitement that grows a week before the celebration, when all logistics are divided among the most capable youth and adults in the block. One group gets woods for the fire, the other will be choosing the amount and which type of drinks will be offered,  third group of people takes responsibility for the pyrotechnic effects and every honest soul is invited for the big festivity.

Generous money donations from all people from the block, that earn more than enough, are collected and spent for the sake of “Bronx” big family atmosphere. Fifteen years ago it started in a modest way, but upgrading every year and more involvement and willingness to create something really special, grown to one of a kind spectacle.

Celebration day starts as a fasting day by the religious rituals. It applies to children as well, while most religious adults, already did 40 days fasting period prior to Christmas. Every household has a small oak branch, called “badnjak” – symbolizing the birth of a Christian era from the ashes of the old world. Whole neighborhood is patiently waiting for an early supper at home around 6 p.m. which consists of fish, with rice and vegetables.  While eating, people know what comes after dinner. Outside, in the middle of the city block, the show can start. People are firstly gathering around the big fire, bringing oak branches from their homes to be traditionally burned. Particular act of throwing a branch into the fire is usually done by the children. Relaxing atmosphere is all around, smiley faces, jokes and happiness. People know each other so well, that it really reminds of a huge family gathering. Families always bring some traditional food from their table, to fill the culinary puzzle for a crowd of neighbors gathering during celebration. “Lav”(Lion) and “Jelen” (Deer) local beers are offered, always present homemade rakija – strong spirit made of plums, grapes, quinces or apricots, then hot tea, juices for the kids, and mulled wine to worm everybody up. With “warm up” comes more laughing, while all kids from the block are running around with their healthy, red cheeks.

No matter how cold it can be in January, this cheerful crowd stays outside, getting ready for the highlight at midnight. Some 15 minutes before, one can notice that majority of the main organizing guys are gone, but that is only to support every piece of logistics, so the rest of the people can truly enjoy. They are mostly allocated on all rooftops of the apartment buildings framing “Bronx” city block, waiting for action. And then comes midnight. People are gathered in the middle of the block setting big fireworks, with hundreds of firecrackers, while rooftops turn into a magical red shining frame of hundreds of bengal torches.

Down in the crowd, more torches are lit up, while fireworks break the sky above. You would not know where to look first in this positive chaos of sounds, colors, lights and human enjoyment. People from other city blocks are rushing to “Bronx” to have a glimpse of this incredible performance. Sometimes, everything looks like a giant burning flame of joy and happiness. Among overwhelmed, cheerful faces, of this devoted people, one can carefully read between the lines. This is undoubtedly magnificent celebration of the holiest religious tradition, but in the same time it glorifies unmatched unity, respect, solidarity and friendship among the people of  Liman II “Bronx”. Personally, I’ve never heard of any similar urban curiosity in Eastern Europe and the Balkans.

Even next morning, on a Christmas Day, the heart of the volunteering team is out, to clean everything that is left from last night’s fairly tale. In a pure bohemian way, “Bronx” team would relax and prepare delicious barbecue, with a few shots of rakija, while thinking what else could be done to make everybody inspired and proud. Maybe a big white screen in the middle of the playground to project cartoons for the kids during summer holiday? And they did it. Dedication to the community won it again.

Year after year, it becomes obvious how Serbian “Bronx” turns even deepest  imagination into reality. It became a city block to dream about, purest symbol of unbreakable bonds between people, a unique place where eternal life values became driving force with no boundaries, where individualism merges into teamwork, for the sake of all. 

From  my personal childhood experience, I am are sharing some recipes, my mom and dad used to prepare for the fasting Orthodox Christmas Eve Dinner.

Cook your fish broth by boiling some river fish heads and tails, mixed with thyme, rosemary, pepper and bay leaves. Divide liquid from the rest. In a new pot, put finely chopped onion and garlic, plus a few whole carrots, celery and parsley roots. Simmer it with adding some fish broth from time to time, till vegetables are cooked. Pull out whole vegetable pieces, add the rest of the broth and fine chops of fish containing enough meat. Cook for 30 min on a low fire. Add tomato juice, ground sweet and hot paprika, salt and pepper. Keep cooking for another 30min. Add chopped parsley leaves and enjoy all the flavors.

Fry finely chopped leeks, add rice and pour the water to cover it. Cook until rice is half – done. Remove from the fire. Make a mix of salt, pepper, finely chopped garlic, rosemary, ground paprika and oil. Bring your whole carp and make 3-4 cuts on one side of it then apply spices mix all over the fish. Arrange rice in a clay pot and put the carp over it. Cover everything with aluminium foil and put it in the oven for 25min on 250 C (482 F). Remove the foil, pour some white wine on the fish and rice and rest in the oven till carp is brown.